Ocean to Summit-From 白鳥山 to 白馬岳

My apologies, this is a very long post but I wanted to include most of the details for others interested in the same hike.
Day 1
We began at 1:40pm on a Friday afternoon. Tim's wife, Michino, dropped us off at our starting point and we began our ascent. The trail, though well-cut, happened to be mostly steep stairs and ropes for the first couple hours and we were drenched in our own sweat before long. The vegetation was dense like most Japanese mountain sides, along with a thin blanket of fog, creating an eerie sense of seclusion. However, after a while, we approached the first hut on 白鳥山(Shirotoriyama, Mt. White Bird) around 3:20pm. This was not our final destination though and we still had a few hours left of daylight.

The remainder of the day was spent rushing to the next rest house before dark. We had set a reasonable pace but Tim was decided on pushing himself harder than I could keep up with and was soon far ahead. When we met again, the poor guy was exhausted and I had to lead! We came to a standstill around 6:30 when dusk had left and darkness surrounded us. We were worried about traveling while being exhausted and in the dark so we sat down, rested, and had a Snickers Bar. It was slower in the dark but there was a bright moon illuminating our path, so much that only I needed my headlamp and Tim followed behind.

We arrived at 犬ヶ岳小屋(Inugadake, Mt. Dog? cabin) around 7:05 where four other people were already bedded for the night. We set up a small cooking area outside and had canned chili, sandwiches Michino had made, and some other things. It was beautiful around us. You could see for miles/kilometers where the moonlight fell on the crests of the hills and mountains. After a couple hours of resting and talking, we went to bed. However, not before running into one more problem that night: mice.

I have never had a problem with mice but they proved quite formidable in a few moments on this particular occasion. I had set my pack inside the cabin and had gone outside to cook. Ten minutes later I returned to hear scuttling and found a hole eaten though my bag's side pocket, two plastic ziplock bags, and half a cookie (The stories about mice asking for cookies is bull! They'd have eaten the whole bag if I hadn't caught the little thieves!). That night we stored the remainder of the food under a metal trash can.
Day 2
We awoke around 6AM and were moving by 7:40AM. According to Tim, the mice had been running around our heads at night but I was sound asleep and missed the fiasco. It was a beautiful morning. The sun was shining brightly and apart from small groups of clouds forming in the Northwest, it was a clear day. Looking far off into the distance was 朝日岳(Asahidake,Mt. Morning Sun), the second to last mountain we would climb that day. This seemed an impossible distance but we would do that and more.

The path too was gorgeous, following the tops of the hills that lead to the next mountain. All were covered with small scraggly trees, grasses and flowers.
We had overcome most of the steep climbs in the beginning so our journey was mostly a relatively easy ascent above the trees and through the many small plateau-like hills dotted with quaint lakes. We summitted three mountains by 12:45pm and stopped for lunch. I had a PB&J (peanut butter and Jelly) sandwich and Tim made ramen. The terrain had changed a little but the small trees and brush still defined our terrain.

We summitted 朝日岳 by 2:20pm. We were now above the clouds which were much thicker by now. We proceeded on to the next mountain, 雪倉岳(Yukikuradake, Mt. Snow Storehouse?) which is notable for it's view and lightning strikes apparently. Around this time we met two other travelers, Tetsu and Shinya, who were from 石川県(Ishikawaken). They were coming from Regge温泉 (Onsen, hot spring) and had traveled almost the same distance as us in half a day. We decided to travel together since we were all going to the same place that night.

Tim and Testu were quite fast but Shinya and I were lagging quite badly and when we finally reached the base of 雪倉岳 we were all quite tired but knew we had to keep going if we were going to reach camp before night fall. Shinya was exhausted by this point and was taking rests every 100 feet or so. I had thought to bring a ski pole and was leaning on it heavily with every step. Without that pole, I would not have finished until much later. It was about 5:00pm by then.

雪倉岳 was alike no other mountain experience I have had in Japan. It was intimidating to look at for it's face was a sheer vertical climb but the path led along the hill next to it which was still quite difficult. Our hope rested on the idea that the top of that mountain would be the summit. When we reached the top of that face however, there was another smaller mountain leading to our left and the sun could be seen clearly, setting in the East. We were all depressed and tired and knew we couldn't stay there because it was too cold and the next cabin was supposedly not too far away. I ate my last Snickers Bar and plodded behind the other three guys.

We summitted 雪倉岳 at 6:30pm. The moon was bright and I was able to descend to the cabin with no headlamp. Again, it was a perfectly clear night and we could easily see our final destination, 白馬岳(Hakubadake, Mt. White Horse). Shinya was in a state of craze by then for he and the others were descending quite quickly with the cabin in view. I took my time, enjoying the night scenery and singing as I clamored down. We reached the cabin by 7:10pm.

That night Tim and I ate spaghetti and Tetsu ate soup and freeze dried rice. Shinya didn't eat but became sick and went to bed. We took our time in setting up our beds and enjoying the company of our new friends. I did some night photography too but am not sure they turned out. The sky, on this rare occasion, was clear enough so we could see the milky way and billions of stars! It reminded me of the nights at Tadmor summer camp in Oregon.
Day 3
The next morning we were moving by 7am. Shinya decided to descend by himself instead of summitting 白馬岳 so there were three of us. Actually, the final ascent was easy because were able to leave our bags at a cross-road we would have to return to. We reached the top of 白馬岳 by 9am. It provided a spectacular view on both sides of the mountain. One side overlooked 富山県(Toyama ken) and the other 長野県(Nagano ken). On Toyama's side, one could see clearly the valley in which I live. On the Nagano side, a sea of clouds covered all but the tallest peaks (known as 雲海, unkai. This is not to be mistaken with unko, which is poop).

Soon we were headed back down the mountain. We reached 小Regge山 at 10:45am. We climbed down a little farther and had lunch around 12:20 at large red shelter nestled in a small peak with a lake. It was picturesque and made even more enjoyable by the warm, delicious ramen we consumed.

The remainder of our descent was through beautiful forest, whose leaves were beginning to turn their famous autumn red. We could see the mountains we had climbed the day before on our left, whose appearance was very stunning but also frightening for they appeared much larger from a distance. We reached Regge 温泉 at 3:30pm and slightly after it began to rain. We took a much needed bath in the outdoor onsen and then Shinya, who had made it down with no problem, graciously drove us back to Tim's house in Niigata. That evening Michino made a large yakisoba meal. It was the perfect way to end the perfect hike! Thanks Michino!

A side note, a week later, some older people who were climbing the Hakubadake were caught in a snowstorm and died. Shinya, who was on the mountain again at the same time, was able to get his tent and sleeping bag out and was able to descend safely. Whew!